How to Banish Brassy: A Comprehensive Guide to Getting Rid of Orange Hair

So, you’ve embarked on the hair-lightening journey, dreaming of blonde, caramel, or even just a lighter shade of your natural color. But instead of achieving hair goals, you’re staring back at a reflection showcasing… orange? Don’t panic! That brassy, orange tint is a common occurrence, and thankfully, completely fixable. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the science behind orange hair, the reasons it happens, and, most importantly, how to get rid of it.

Table of Contents

Understanding the Orange: Why Does Hair Turn Brassy?

Before we dive into the solutions, let’s understand the problem. Why does hair turn orange (or yellow, for that matter) during the lightening process? The answer lies in melanin.

Hair gets its color from melanin, a pigment. There are two main types: eumelanin, which produces brown and black hues, and pheomelanin, which creates red and yellow tones. When you lighten your hair, you’re essentially breaking down these melanin molecules.

Eumelanin is easier to break down than pheomelanin. This means that during the lightening process, the darker brown and black pigments are removed first, leaving behind the stubborn red and orange undertones of pheomelanin. The deeper and darker your natural hair color, the more likely you are to encounter these warm tones. Think of it as peeling back layers – you have to go through the red and orange before you get to blonde.

In essence, orange hair is simply a sign that the lightening process hasn’t been carried out far enough to completely neutralize the underlying warm pigments. It could also indicate that the developer used was not strong enough, or that the lightener wasn’t left on for the optimal time.

Identifying the Culprits: Common Causes of Brassy Hair

Several factors can contribute to the dreaded orange tinge. Identifying the root cause will help you choose the most effective solution.

Insufficient Lightening: As mentioned above, this is the most common cause. If the lightener isn’t strong enough or isn’t left on long enough, the underlying warm tones will remain.
Hard Water: Hard water contains high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium. These minerals can deposit on the hair shaft, creating a buildup that reacts with hair dye and lightener, leading to brassiness.
Sun Exposure: Prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV rays can oxidize hair, leading to fading and the emergence of warm tones. Think of it like a natural bleaching process, but uneven and unwanted.
Product Buildup: Residue from styling products, shampoos, and conditioners can accumulate on the hair, contributing to a dull, brassy appearance.
Incorrect Toner Choice: Toning is a crucial step after lightening. Using the wrong toner, or skipping it altogether, can leave you with unwanted warm tones.
Damaged Hair: Porous, damaged hair tends to absorb more pigment, making it more susceptible to brassiness and color fading.

Neutralizing the Orange: Your Arsenal of Solutions

Now for the good news: getting rid of orange hair is entirely possible. Here’s a breakdown of the most effective methods, from quick fixes to more involved processes.

Toning: The Brass-Busting Hero

Toning is the cornerstone of neutralizing unwanted tones in lightened hair. Toners work by depositing pigments that counteract the underlying colors. For orange hair, you’ll need a blue-based toner.

Understanding Color Theory: Remember the color wheel? Blue sits opposite orange, making it the perfect neutralizer. The toner deposits blue pigment, canceling out the orange and creating a more balanced, neutral tone.
Choosing the Right Toner: Toners come in various forms, including demi-permanent dyes, glosses, and shampoos. Demi-permanent toners offer more significant color correction and last longer, typically around 6-8 weeks. Glosses provide a more subtle color enhancement and can add shine.
Application is Key: Follow the instructions on your chosen toner carefully. Over-processing can lead to unwanted results. Always perform a strand test first to gauge how the toner will affect your hair. Apply evenly, focusing on the areas with the most orange.

Blue Shampoo: A Maintenance Must-Have

Blue shampoo is a pigmented shampoo designed to neutralize orange tones. It’s a fantastic tool for maintaining your color between toning sessions.

How it Works: Similar to toners, blue shampoo contains blue pigment that counteracts orange. It deposits a small amount of pigment with each wash, helping to keep brassiness at bay.
Using Blue Shampoo Correctly: Blue shampoo can be drying, so don’t use it every day. Use it once or twice a week, alternating with a moisturizing shampoo. Leave it on for the recommended time (usually 2-5 minutes) before rinsing thoroughly.
Choosing the Right Blue Shampoo: Look for a blue shampoo that is specifically formulated for orange tones. Some are more pigmented than others, so experiment to find one that works best for your hair.

DIY Remedies: When You Need a Quick Fix

While not as potent as professional products, several DIY remedies can help temporarily tone down orange hair.

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse: Apple cider vinegar (ACV) has a low pH that can help to close the hair cuticle, reducing porosity and minimizing brassiness. Mix 1-2 tablespoons of ACV with 1 cup of water and use it as a final rinse after shampooing.
Blue Food Coloring: This is a less conventional method, but it can work in a pinch. Add a few drops of blue food coloring to your conditioner and mix well. Apply to your hair, focusing on the orange areas, and leave on for a few minutes before rinsing. Be very careful, as too much can stain your hair blue!
Purple Shampoo (For Yellow Tones): While blue shampoo is best for orange, purple shampoo neutralizes yellow tones. If you notice your hair is turning more yellow than orange, switch to purple shampoo.

Professional Help: When to Call in the Experts

Sometimes, DIY solutions simply aren’t enough. If you’ve tried toning and blue shampoo without success, or if your hair is severely damaged, it’s best to consult a professional colorist.

Color Correction Expertise: Professional colorists have the knowledge and experience to assess your hair’s condition, identify the underlying tones, and formulate a custom color correction plan.
Avoiding Further Damage: Attempting to correct severe brassiness on your own can lead to further damage. A professional can use the right products and techniques to achieve your desired color without compromising the health of your hair.
Understanding the Underlying Issues: A colorist can identify the root cause of your brassiness, such as hard water or product buildup, and recommend solutions to prevent it from recurring.

Preventing Orange Hair: Long-Term Strategies

Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some tips to help you avoid the dreaded orange tint in the first place.

Start with a Healthy Base: Healthy, undamaged hair is less prone to brassiness. Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, avoid excessive heat styling, and get regular trims to remove split ends.
Use a Water Filter: If you have hard water, invest in a shower filter to remove minerals that can contribute to brassiness.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun: Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
Clarify Regularly: Use a clarifying shampoo once or twice a month to remove product buildup.
Choose the Right Products: Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for lightened hair. Avoid products that contain sulfates, which can strip color and dry out your hair.
Consult with a Professional Before Lightening: Before embarking on any major hair color changes, consult with a professional colorist. They can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best lightening process for your hair type, and help you choose the right toner.
Consider a Low and Slow Approach: Instead of trying to achieve drastic lightening in one session, consider a more gradual approach. This will minimize damage and reduce the likelihood of brassiness.

Maintaining Your Color: Keeping Brassy at Bay

Once you’ve achieved your desired color, it’s essential to maintain it. Here are some tips for keeping your hair looking fresh and vibrant.

Use Blue Shampoo Regularly: Incorporate blue shampoo into your hair care routine to neutralize orange tones.
Deep Condition Regularly: Lightened hair tends to be drier, so deep conditioning is crucial. Use a deep conditioner once or twice a week to replenish moisture and prevent damage.
Minimize Heat Styling: Excessive heat styling can fade color and damage hair. Use heat protectant sprays and avoid using hot tools on high settings.
Get Regular Gloss Treatments: Gloss treatments can add shine, enhance color, and neutralize brassiness.
Touch Up Your Roots Regularly: Touching up your roots regularly will prevent a harsh line of demarcation and keep your color looking fresh.

Beyond the Basics: Addressing Specific Hair Types

The strategies outlined above apply generally, but certain hair types require specific considerations when dealing with orange tones.

Dark Hair: Dark hair contains a high concentration of melanin, making it more prone to brassiness. You may need multiple lightening sessions to achieve your desired level of lightness, and you’ll likely need to use a stronger toner.
Fine Hair: Fine hair is more susceptible to damage, so be extra careful when lightening. Use a lower volume developer and monitor your hair closely.
Coarse Hair: Coarse hair can be resistant to lightening. You may need to use a stronger developer or leave the lightener on for a longer time.
Curly Hair: Curly hair is naturally drier and more fragile, so moisturizing is key. Use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, and avoid harsh chemicals.

Getting rid of orange hair is achievable with the right knowledge and tools. Understanding the science behind brassiness, identifying the causes, and implementing a targeted treatment plan will help you achieve your dream hair color. Remember to be patient, consistent, and don’t hesitate to seek professional help when needed. With the right approach, you can banish brassiness and embrace beautiful, vibrant, and healthy hair.

What causes brassiness in hair, and why does it happen specifically after bleaching or lightening?

Brassiness, that unwanted orange or yellow tone in your hair, is primarily caused by underlying pigments being revealed during the lightening process. Hair naturally contains warm pigments like red, orange, and yellow. When you bleach or lighten your hair, you’re essentially lifting the existing color, and these warmer tones often become exposed as the cooler tones are stripped away.

The degree to which brassiness appears depends on your natural hair color, the strength of the lightening product used, and how long the product was left on your hair. Darker hair, naturally richer in red and orange pigments, is more prone to brassiness. Insufficient lightening can also contribute to the problem, as the hair hasn’t been lifted enough to reveal the desired cool tones.

How can I prevent brassiness from occurring in the first place when I’m bleaching my hair?

Preventing brassiness starts with proper bleaching technique. Always use a high-quality bleach and developer, and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Consider doing a strand test before applying bleach to your entire head to assess how your hair will react and determine the processing time needed to achieve your desired lightness without over-processing.

Also, consider using a toner after bleaching. A toner deposits cool-toned pigments (purple, blue, or green) to neutralize the underlying warm tones. Choosing the right toner shade is crucial; consult with a professional stylist if you’re unsure which toner will work best for your hair color and desired outcome.

What are the best purple shampoos and conditioners for neutralizing brassiness, and how often should I use them?

Purple shampoos and conditioners are formulated with violet pigments that counteract yellow and orange tones in the hair. Look for products specifically designed for blonde, silver, or highlighted hair, as these often contain a higher concentration of purple pigment. Popular brands include Fanola No Yellow Shampoo, Redken Color Extend Blondage Shampoo, and Olaplex No. 4P Blonde Enhancer Toning Shampoo.

The frequency of use depends on the severity of your brassiness and the strength of the product. Start by using purple shampoo once or twice a week, and adjust as needed. Overuse can lead to a purple tint, especially on very light or porous hair. Always follow the product instructions and use a moisturizing conditioner afterwards to prevent dryness.

Besides purple shampoo, what other products or treatments can help get rid of brassiness?

Besides purple shampoos and conditioners, blue shampoos and conditioners can be effective, especially for neutralizing orange tones. Also, consider using a hair gloss or toner. These products deposit cool-toned pigments to cancel out brassiness and enhance your hair’s overall tone and shine. Hair glosses are typically less harsh than toners and can be used more frequently.

For more intense brassiness correction, a salon toning treatment is often the best option. A professional stylist can assess your hair’s specific needs and formulate a custom toner to achieve the desired results. Deep conditioning treatments can also help to restore moisture and improve the overall health of your hair, which can make it less prone to brassiness in the long run.

How can I choose the right toner shade to effectively neutralize the brassiness in my hair?

Choosing the right toner shade is crucial for effectively neutralizing brassiness. Identify the dominant brassy tones in your hair – are they more yellow or orange? For yellow tones, a purple-based toner is best. For orange tones, a blue-based toner or even a green-based toner might be more effective. If you have a mix of both yellow and orange, a violet-blue toner can be a good option.

Consider your desired end result. Do you want a cool, ashy blonde, or a more neutral blonde? Ashy tones require more intense cool-toned toners. Look at toner level numbers – a higher number indicates a lighter shade. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and choose a toner that’s slightly lighter than your desired shade, as you can always re-tone if needed. If unsure, consult a professional stylist for guidance.

Can heat styling tools contribute to brassiness, and if so, how can I protect my hair?

Yes, heat styling tools like straighteners, curling irons, and blow dryers can definitely contribute to brassiness. Heat can damage the hair cuticle, making it more porous and susceptible to absorbing minerals and impurities from water, which can lead to brassy tones. Also, heat can oxidize existing color molecules, shifting them towards warmer shades.

To protect your hair, always use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools. This creates a barrier between the heat and your hair, reducing damage and preventing color fade. Lower the heat settings on your styling tools whenever possible. Limit your use of heat styling tools to avoid excessive damage and brassiness buildup.

Are there any home remedies or natural ingredients that can help reduce brassiness in hair?

While not as potent as commercial products, certain home remedies can help to subtly tone down brassiness. Apple cider vinegar rinses, when diluted with water, can help to balance the pH of your hair and remove mineral buildup, which can contribute to brassiness. Chamomile tea rinses can also add subtle golden tones and reduce yellowing, though this is more effective on lighter shades of blonde.

Lemon juice, diluted with water, can act as a natural lightener, but should be used with caution as it can be drying and potentially damaging to the hair if overused. Baking soda, mixed with water, can also help to remove mineral buildup. Remember that these remedies are not a replacement for professional treatments, but they can be used as part of a holistic hair care routine.