Bleaching your hair at home can be a tempting way to achieve a lighter shade without the salon price tag. One of the most crucial components of the hair bleaching process is the developer, and choosing the right volume is essential for getting the desired results while minimizing damage. This article delves into the specifics of using 20 developer for bleaching, exploring its pros and cons, potential outcomes, safety considerations, and much more.
Understanding Hair Developers
A hair developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide, is the activating agent that works in tandem with hair bleach to lift color from your hair strands. The volume of the developer indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, directly influencing its lifting power. Higher volumes lift color faster but also pose a greater risk of damage. Lower volumes are gentler but may require multiple applications to achieve significant lightening.
The volume number (e.g., 10, 20, 30, 40) signifies the percentage of hydrogen peroxide in the solution. For instance, 20 developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. This percentage dictates how much oxygen is released, which then oxidizes the melanin in your hair, causing it to lighten.
The Role of Developer Volume
Choosing the correct developer volume is paramount. The decision depends on factors like your existing hair color, the desired level of lightness, and the overall health of your hair. Using too strong a developer can lead to breakage, dryness, and irreversible damage. Conversely, using a developer that’s too weak might not provide the desired level of lift, resulting in brassy or uneven results.
20 Developer: The Gentle Lightener
20 developer is generally considered a mild to medium-strength developer. It’s a popular choice for several reasons, including its relatively gentle nature and versatility.
When is 20 Developer a Good Choice?
20 developer shines in several scenarios:
- Lifting only 1-2 levels: If you’re aiming for a subtle lightening effect, such as going from dark brown to medium brown or light brown to dark blonde, 20 developer is often sufficient.
- Toning: 20 developer is frequently used with toners to neutralize unwanted brassy or yellow tones in pre-lightened hair. It helps deposit the toner’s pigment without causing significant further lightening.
- Covering gray hair (with hair dye): While not strictly for bleaching, 20 developer is commonly mixed with permanent hair dye to effectively cover gray hair. The developer opens the hair cuticle, allowing the dye to penetrate and deposit color.
- Damaged or Fine Hair: If your hair is already damaged, fragile, or naturally fine, 20 developer is a safer option than stronger developers, as it minimizes the risk of further breakage.
- Root touch-ups: For previously bleached hair, using 20 developer on the roots can blend the new growth without causing excessive lightening of the already bleached lengths.
Limitations of 20 Developer
While versatile, 20 developer has its limitations:
- Significant Lightening: If you have dark hair (dark brown or black) and want to achieve a very light blonde or platinum shade, 20 developer alone is unlikely to provide sufficient lift in a single application. You might need multiple sessions, which can still be damaging.
- Stubborn Pigments: Some hair types are more resistant to lightening. If you have hair with a lot of red or orange undertones, 20 developer might struggle to lift past those tones, resulting in brassiness.
- Virgin Dark Hair: Bleaching virgin (untreated) dark hair with 20 volume developer may require multiple applications to reach the desired lightness, increasing the potential for damage compared to using a higher volume developer carefully.
The Bleaching Process with 20 Developer
Before embarking on a bleaching adventure, it’s important to be prepared. This includes gathering the necessary supplies, performing a strand test, and understanding the application process.
Essential Supplies
- Bleach powder or cream: Choose a high-quality bleach designed for at-home use.
- 20 volume developer: Ensure it’s fresh and from a reputable brand.
- Mixing bowl and applicator brush: Opt for non-metallic tools to avoid unwanted chemical reactions.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from the bleach.
- Old towel: Cover your shoulders to prevent staining your clothes.
- Hair clips: Section your hair for easier application.
- Timer: Keep track of the processing time.
- Toner (optional): To neutralize brassiness after bleaching.
- Purple shampoo (optional): To maintain the cool tones of blonde hair.
- Deep conditioner: To replenish moisture after bleaching.
The Strand Test: Your Best Friend
Before applying bleach to your entire head, always perform a strand test. This crucial step allows you to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and determine the appropriate processing time. Select a small, inconspicuous section of hair (e.g., underneath layers). Apply the bleach mixture, following the instructions below, and check the strand every 10 minutes. This will give you a preview of the final result and help you avoid unpleasant surprises.
Step-by-Step Application Guide
- Preparation: Protect your clothing and workspace. Put on gloves.
- Mixing: In a non-metallic bowl, mix the bleach powder and 20 developer according to the bleach manufacturer’s instructions. The typical ratio is 1:1 or 1:2 (bleach to developer), but always follow the instructions provided with your specific product.
- Sectioning: Divide your hair into four sections (or more, depending on thickness) using hair clips.
- Application: Starting at the roots (where hair processes faster due to body heat), apply the bleach mixture evenly to small sections of hair using the applicator brush. Ensure all strands are thoroughly coated.
- Processing: Once all sections are covered, start timing. Refer to the strand test for the estimated processing time, but generally, it will be between 20-45 minutes. Check the hair every 10 minutes to monitor the lifting process.
- Rinsing: Once the desired level of lightness is achieved, rinse the bleach out thoroughly with cool water.
- Toning (Optional): If needed, apply a toner to neutralize any brassy or yellow tones. Follow the toner’s instructions carefully.
- Deep Conditioning: After toning (or if you skipped that step), apply a deep conditioner to your hair to replenish moisture and help repair any damage. Leave it on for the recommended time, then rinse thoroughly.
Safety Considerations and Potential Risks
Bleaching, even with a relatively gentle developer like 20 volume, is still a chemical process that can potentially damage your hair and scalp. It’s important to take precautions and be aware of the risks.
Skin Sensitivity and Allergies
Always perform a patch test 48 hours before bleaching to check for any allergic reactions or skin sensitivity. Apply a small amount of the mixed bleach to a discreet area (e.g., behind your ear) and monitor for any redness, itching, or burning. If any irritation occurs, do not proceed with the bleaching process.
Overlapping and Banding
Overlapping bleach onto previously lightened hair can cause breakage and uneven color. Apply the bleach carefully, focusing only on the new growth or areas that need lightening. Banding refers to uneven color, often occurring when the bleach is not applied evenly or when the roots process faster than the lengths.
Hair Damage and Breakage
Bleaching can weaken the hair shaft, making it more prone to breakage, split ends, and dryness. Using 20 developer reduces the risk compared to higher volumes, but it’s still crucial to avoid over-processing. If your hair feels gummy or elastic while bleaching, rinse immediately.
Scalp Irritation and Burns
Even with careful application, bleach can sometimes cause scalp irritation or burns. If you experience any burning or excessive discomfort during the bleaching process, rinse the bleach out immediately.
Post-Bleach Hair Care
After bleaching, your hair will be more vulnerable and require extra care to maintain its health and appearance.
Hydration is Key
Bleaching can strip your hair of its natural oils, leaving it dry and brittle. Use moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments to replenish moisture. Look for products containing ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, argan oil, and hyaluronic acid.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments can help strengthen the hair shaft and repair damage caused by bleaching. However, overuse of protein treatments can make hair stiff and prone to breakage, so use them sparingly (once or twice a month).
Minimize Heat Styling
Heat styling tools like blow dryers, straighteners, and curling irons can further damage bleached hair. Minimize their use as much as possible, and always use a heat protectant spray before styling.
Regular Trims
Regular trims help remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft, keeping your hair looking healthy and preventing further damage.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with careful planning, things can sometimes go awry during the bleaching process. Here are some common issues and how to address them.
Brassy or Yellow Tones
If your hair turns brassy or yellow after bleaching, a toner can help neutralize these unwanted tones. Choose a toner with violet or blue pigments, depending on the specific tones you want to correct. Purple shampoo can also help maintain cool tones in between toning sessions.
Uneven Lightening
Uneven lightening can occur due to inconsistent application or variations in hair porosity. You can try applying bleach to the darker areas for a shorter processing time to even out the color. Alternatively, a color correction appointment with a professional stylist may be necessary.
Hair Feels Gummy or Elastic
Gummy or elastic hair is a sign of severe damage. This means the hair’s protein structure has been compromised. Stop the bleaching process immediately and rinse thoroughly. Focus on deep conditioning treatments and protein treatments to help rebuild the hair’s strength. In severe cases, a professional stylist may recommend a haircut to remove the most damaged sections.
Alternatives to Bleaching with 20 Developer
If you’re hesitant to bleach your hair or if 20 developer seems too risky for your hair type, consider these alternatives:
- High-Lift Dyes: High-lift dyes are designed to lighten the hair while depositing color in a single step. They are generally less damaging than bleach but may not provide as much lift.
- Balayage or Highlights: These techniques involve strategically lightening specific sections of hair, rather than the entire head. This can create a lighter look with less overall damage.
- Gradual Lightening Products: Some shampoos and conditioners contain ingredients that gradually lighten the hair over time. These products are very gentle but may not provide dramatic results.
In conclusion, using 20 developer for bleaching can be a viable option for achieving subtle lightening, toning, or covering gray hair. However, it’s essential to understand its limitations, follow safety precautions, and provide your hair with proper post-bleach care. When in doubt, consult with a professional stylist to determine the best approach for your hair type and desired results.
Can I use 20 developer to bleach my hair at home?
Yes, you can use 20 volume developer with bleach for at-home hair lightening. It’s generally considered a safer option compared to higher volumes like 30 or 40 because it lifts color more gradually, reducing the risk of damage and breakage. However, it’s crucial to assess your hair’s current condition and desired level of lift before proceeding.
Keep in mind that 20 volume developer provides gentler lift. If you have dark hair or are aiming for a significant color change, you might need multiple bleaching sessions with 20 volume or consider a higher volume if your hair is healthy enough. Patch testing is also essential to check for allergies or adverse reactions.
How much lift can I expect from bleaching with 20 developer?
20 volume developer typically provides about 1-2 levels of lift when used with bleach. This means it can lighten your hair by one or two shades lighter than its current color. The actual amount of lift you achieve will depend on your natural hair color, the type of bleach you use, and the processing time.
For instance, if you have medium brown hair and use 20 volume developer, you can expect to reach a light brown or dark blonde shade. If you’re aiming for a much lighter result, like platinum blonde, you’ll likely need to use a stronger developer or undergo multiple bleaching sessions. Carefully monitor your hair during the bleaching process to prevent over-processing.
Is 20 developer suitable for all hair types when bleaching?
While 20 volume developer is generally considered gentler, it’s not universally suitable for all hair types when used with bleach. Individuals with fine, damaged, or previously treated hair should exercise extra caution. Even with a lower volume developer, bleaching can still cause damage, especially if the hair is already compromised.
Those with healthy, virgin hair may tolerate 20 volume developer well, but it’s still important to perform a strand test before applying the bleach mixture to the entire head. This will help you assess how your hair responds to the process and determine the appropriate processing time to achieve the desired lift without causing excessive damage.
How long should I leave bleach with 20 developer on my hair?
The recommended processing time for bleach with 20 volume developer varies depending on your hair’s color and condition, but generally ranges from 15 to 45 minutes. Start checking your hair every 5-10 minutes after the initial 15 minutes to monitor the lifting process. It’s crucial to avoid exceeding the maximum processing time recommended by the bleach manufacturer.
Over-processing can lead to severe damage, breakage, and even chemical burns. The goal is to achieve the desired level of lift without compromising the integrity of your hair. If you’re unsure about the correct processing time, consult with a professional hairstylist for guidance.
What’s the difference between 20, 30, and 40 volume developers for bleaching?
The main difference between 20, 30, and 40 volume developers lies in their oxidizing power. 20 volume developer is the gentlest, lifting hair 1-2 levels and causing the least amount of damage. 30 volume developer lifts 2-3 levels and is commonly used for achieving noticeable lightening. 40 volume developer is the strongest, lifting 3-4 levels and is typically used for achieving significant color changes quickly.
The higher the volume, the faster and more effectively the developer lifts color, but also the greater the risk of damage. 40 volume developer is generally not recommended for at-home use, especially on already damaged or delicate hair. Choosing the right volume depends on your hair type, desired level of lift, and risk tolerance.
How can I minimize damage when bleaching with 20 developer?
To minimize damage when bleaching with 20 volume developer, start with healthy hair. Avoid bleaching if your hair is already dry, brittle, or recently permed or relaxed. Use a protein treatment a week before bleaching to strengthen your hair. Also, do not wash your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching. The natural oils will act as a barrier.
During the bleaching process, ensure that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the bleach powder and developer mixing ratio. Avoid overlapping bleach on previously lightened areas, as this can lead to breakage. After bleaching, use a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask to restore moisture and repair any damage. Consider using purple shampoo to maintain the desired tone and neutralize brassiness.
What aftercare is essential after bleaching hair with 20 developer?
After bleaching your hair with 20 volume developer, implementing a thorough aftercare routine is crucial for maintaining its health and appearance. Focus on replenishing moisture and protein to rebuild and strengthen the hair shaft. Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners designed for color-treated hair.
Incorporate weekly deep conditioning treatments or hair masks to hydrate and nourish your strands. Avoid heat styling as much as possible, and when you do use heat, apply a heat protectant spray. Regular trims will also help remove split ends and prevent further breakage, ensuring your bleached hair stays healthy and vibrant.