Bleaching your hair is a transformative experience, opening doors to vibrant colors and bold new looks. However, it’s also a process that can be damaging if not handled with care. A crucial element in hair bleaching is the developer, and the question of whether to use a 30 volume developer on previously bleached hair is a common one. Let’s delve into the intricacies of hair bleaching, developer volumes, and the potential risks and rewards of using a 30 volume developer on pre-lightened locks.
Understanding Hair Bleaching and Developer Volumes
To make an informed decision about using 30 volume developer on bleached hair, it’s vital to understand the fundamental principles of hair bleaching and the role of developer volumes.
The Science of Hair Bleaching
Hair bleaching, at its core, is a chemical process that lifts the natural pigment from your hair. This process involves two primary components: a bleaching agent (usually containing hydrogen peroxide) and an alkaline booster (like ammonia). The alkaline booster opens the hair cuticle, allowing the bleaching agent to penetrate and oxidize the melanin, which is responsible for hair color. As the melanin molecules break down, the hair lightens.
The extent of lightening depends on several factors, including the strength of the bleaching agent, the duration of application, and the hair’s natural color and thickness. Repeated bleaching can weaken the hair structure, making it more prone to breakage and damage.
Developer Volumes: What They Mean
Developer, also known as peroxide, is the oxidizing agent that activates the bleach. It comes in various strengths, denoted by “volume.” The volume number indicates the amount of oxygen released by the developer. Higher volumes release more oxygen, leading to faster and more intense lightening.
Here’s a brief overview of common developer volumes:
- 10 Volume: Deposits color or performs a slight lift. Gentle and suitable for toning or minimal lightening.
- 20 Volume: Lifts 1-2 levels. Ideal for covering grey hair or achieving subtle lightening.
- 30 Volume: Lifts 2-3 levels. A popular choice for moderate lightening and achieving significant color changes.
- 40 Volume: Lifts 3-4 levels. The strongest developer, reserved for very dark hair or drastic color transformations. It should be used with extreme caution and is often best left to professionals.
Why Developer Volume Matters
The choice of developer volume significantly impacts the lightening process and the health of your hair. A lower volume developer will lighten hair more gently but may require multiple applications to achieve the desired result. A higher volume developer will lighten hair more quickly and effectively but carries a greater risk of damage.
Using a developer that is too strong for your hair type or condition can lead to excessive dryness, breakage, and even chemical burns. It’s crucial to carefully assess your hair’s needs and choose the appropriate developer volume accordingly.
The Dilemma: 30 Volume on Bleached Hair
The core question is whether using 30 volume developer on previously bleached hair is a safe and effective practice. The answer is nuanced and depends on several factors.
Understanding the Risks
Previously bleached hair is inherently more vulnerable to damage. The bleaching process weakens the hair’s protein structure, making it more porous and susceptible to breakage. Applying 30 volume developer to already bleached hair can exacerbate these issues, potentially leading to:
- Extreme Dryness: Bleach strips the hair of its natural oils, and a strong developer like 30 volume can further dehydrate the hair.
- Breakage: Weakened hair is more prone to snapping and breaking, especially during and after the bleaching process.
- Elasticity Loss: Hair loses its ability to stretch and return to its original shape, leading to a gummy or mushy texture.
- Chemical Burns: If applied incorrectly or left on for too long, 30 volume developer can cause chemical burns to the scalp.
- Uneven Lightening: Bleached hair may have varying levels of porosity, leading to uneven lightening results when re-bleached.
When 30 Volume Might Be Considered
Despite the risks, there are specific situations where a professional stylist might cautiously use 30 volume developer on bleached hair:
- Correcting Uneven Tones: If previously bleached hair has developed brassy or uneven tones, a carefully controlled application of 30 volume developer might be used to lift those tones and create a more uniform base.
- Achieving a Significant Color Change: If the desired color requires a substantial lift from the current bleached shade, a 30 volume developer might be necessary. However, this should only be done if the hair is in relatively good condition and under close supervision.
- Root Touch-Ups: In some cases, 30 volume developer might be used for root touch-ups on previously bleached hair, but only if the roots are significantly darker than the already bleached lengths. The developer should be applied to the roots only, avoiding overlap with the already processed hair.
Factors to Consider Before Using 30 Volume
Before even considering using 30 volume developer on bleached hair, carefully evaluate these factors:
- Hair Condition: Assess the overall health and strength of your hair. If your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged, using 30 volume developer is highly risky.
- Porosity: Determine your hair’s porosity. Highly porous hair absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it quickly, making it more susceptible to damage from bleaching.
- Previous Bleaching History: Consider how many times your hair has been bleached and the time elapsed since the last bleaching session. Repeated bleaching increases the risk of damage.
- Desired Result: Evaluate the level of lift required to achieve your desired color. If only a slight lift is needed, a lower volume developer is a safer option.
- Skill Level: If you are not a professional stylist, it’s strongly recommended to seek professional help. Bleaching is a complex process that requires expertise and precision.
Safer Alternatives and Strategies
If you’re hesitant about using 30 volume developer on bleached hair, several safer alternatives and strategies can help you achieve your desired results without causing excessive damage.
Lower Volume Developers
Opting for a 10 or 20 volume developer can significantly reduce the risk of damage. While it may require multiple applications or a longer processing time, it’s a gentler approach to lightening already bleached hair. Patience is key when using lower volume developers.
Bleach Baths
A bleach bath is a diluted form of bleach that is less harsh on the hair. It involves mixing bleach with shampoo and a lower volume developer (usually 10 or 20 volume). Bleach baths can be effective for removing unwanted tones or achieving a subtle lift without causing significant damage.
Hair Glosses and Toners
If your goal is to correct unwanted tones or add shine to your bleached hair, consider using a hair gloss or toner instead of bleach. Toners deposit color to neutralize brassiness or yellow tones, while glosses add shine and vibrancy. These products are typically less damaging than bleach and can help improve the overall appearance of your hair.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Regular deep conditioning treatments are essential for maintaining the health and moisture of bleached hair. Use a deep conditioner at least once a week to replenish moisture, strengthen the hair shaft, and prevent breakage.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments can help rebuild the protein structure of damaged hair. Use a protein treatment every few weeks to strengthen your hair and improve its elasticity. Be careful not to overuse protein treatments, as they can make hair brittle if used excessively.
Professional Consultation
The best way to ensure the safety of your hair is to consult with a professional stylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate products and techniques, and minimize the risk of damage.
Post-Bleach Care: Essential for Hair Health
Regardless of the developer volume you use, proper post-bleach care is crucial for maintaining the health and integrity of your hair.
Gentle Shampoo and Conditioner
Use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner designed for color-treated hair. These products are gentler on the hair and won’t strip away moisture or fade your color as quickly.
Heat Protection
Avoid using heat styling tools as much as possible. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
Regular Trims
Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage from traveling up the hair shaft.
Hydrating Hair Masks
Incorporate hydrating hair masks into your routine to replenish moisture and nourish your hair. Look for masks containing ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil.
Minimize Further Chemical Treatments
Avoid perming, relaxing, or further bleaching your hair immediately after bleaching. Give your hair time to recover before subjecting it to additional chemical processes.
Ultimately, deciding whether to use 30 volume developer on bleached hair requires careful consideration of your hair’s condition, desired results, and risk tolerance. While it may be appropriate in certain situations under professional guidance, safer alternatives should always be explored first. Prioritizing the health and integrity of your hair is paramount, and proper post-bleach care is essential for maintaining its beauty and strength. Remember to always consult with a professional stylist for personalized advice and guidance.
What happens if I use 30 volume developer on hair that’s already bleached?
Using 30 volume developer on already bleached hair can lead to significant damage. Bleached hair is inherently more porous and fragile than virgin hair, meaning it absorbs the developer and any lightening agents much faster. This can result in over-processing, causing breakage, extreme dryness, and a gummy or mushy texture.
Furthermore, applying a strong developer like 30 volume to previously bleached hair can also lift the color too quickly, potentially leading to unwanted tones like brassiness or even complete color removal, leaving the hair almost white and extremely susceptible to damage. It is best to use lower volume developers or color depositing masks to achieve the desired color without risking the health of your hair.
Is 30 volume developer ever safe to use on bleached hair?
Generally, using 30 volume developer on already bleached hair is not recommended due to the high risk of damage. However, there might be very specific situations where a professional stylist might consider it, such as correcting extremely uneven bleaching or doing very subtle highlights or lowlights. These instances are rare and require a deep understanding of hair structure and color theory.
The safest approach is to always consult with a qualified hair colorist who can assess your hair’s condition and determine the most appropriate developer volume for your specific needs. They will consider factors like your hair’s porosity, existing damage, and desired color result to minimize the risk of further damage and achieve the best possible outcome.
What developer volume is best for toning bleached hair?
When toning bleached hair, a lower volume developer is generally preferred to avoid further damage and unwanted lifting. 10 volume developer is often recommended as it primarily deposits color without significantly lifting the hair’s base. This ensures the toner neutralizes unwanted brassiness or adds the desired tone without compromising the hair’s integrity.
Alternatively, a processing solution designed specifically for toners can also be used. These solutions often contain ingredients that help protect the hair while depositing color. Using a lower volume developer or a dedicated processing solution minimizes the risk of over-processing and helps achieve a more even and predictable color result.
How can I tell if my bleached hair is too damaged for 30 volume developer?
Several signs indicate that your bleached hair is too damaged for 30 volume developer. These include excessive dryness, brittleness, and noticeable breakage, especially when combing or brushing. If your hair feels gummy or mushy when wet, or if it stretches excessively before snapping, it’s a clear indication of significant damage.
Additionally, if your hair is highly porous and absorbs moisture or color very quickly, it’s likely already compromised and more susceptible to further damage from a strong developer. In such cases, using 30 volume developer would likely exacerbate the existing damage and potentially lead to irreversible hair loss. A strand test is always recommended.
What are the alternatives to 30 volume developer for previously bleached hair?
Several alternatives exist to 30 volume developer when working with previously bleached hair. Lower volume developers like 10 or 20 volume are safer options for depositing color or making subtle changes without causing significant lift. These lower volumes minimize the risk of further damage and are ideal for toning or refreshing existing color.
Color depositing products like hair masks, glazes, and semi-permanent dyes are excellent alternatives that don’t require any developer. These products deposit color directly onto the hair’s surface without altering the underlying pigment, making them a gentle and effective way to enhance or change your hair color without risking further damage.
What should I do if I accidentally used 30 volume developer on my bleached hair?
If you accidentally used 30 volume developer on your bleached hair, immediately rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water to stop the processing. Avoid using shampoo at this stage, as it can further strip the hair of moisture and cause additional damage. Focus on removing the developer as completely as possible.
After rinsing, apply a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask designed for damaged hair. Leave it on for the recommended time, or even longer for extra hydration and repair. Follow up with protein treatments in the following days to help rebuild the hair’s structure. Closely monitor your hair for any signs of further damage and consult a professional stylist for advice on ongoing care and repair.
How can I prevent damage when bleaching hair in the future?
To prevent damage when bleaching hair in the future, start with healthy, well-hydrated hair. Avoid bleaching too frequently and space out your bleaching sessions to allow your hair time to recover. Always use a lower volume developer, such as 10 or 20 volume, unless you are a professional aiming for significant lift.
Incorporate bond-building treatments like Olaplex or similar products into your bleaching process to help protect and strengthen the hair structure during and after the chemical service. After bleaching, prioritize moisturizing and protein-rich treatments to replenish lost moisture and rebuild the hair’s protein bonds. Use heat protectant products when styling and minimize heat styling to prevent further damage.