Changing your hair color is a fun way to express yourself, but navigating the world of hair dye can be tricky. One of the most common questions is: can you put professional color over box color? The short answer is yes, but it’s a complicated “yes” with potential risks and considerations. Understanding these nuances is crucial for achieving the hair color of your dreams without damaging your hair. This guide dives deep into the ins and outs of coloring over box dye, helping you make informed decisions.
Understanding Box Dye vs. Professional Hair Color
The first step in understanding whether professional color can be applied over box dye is knowing the difference between the two. They might both seem like hair color, but their formulations and application processes are worlds apart.
The Nature of Box Dye
Box dyes are designed for widespread use, meaning they need to work on a variety of hair types and colors. To achieve this versatility, they generally contain higher concentrations of ammonia and peroxide. This allows the color to penetrate the hair shaft effectively, even if your hair is resistant. However, this higher concentration also makes them more damaging, particularly with repeated use.
Another key characteristic of box dye is its “one-size-fits-all” approach. The developer volume (the strength of the peroxide) is often pre-determined and included in the box. This means you don’t have control over how much your hair is lightened, which can lead to unpredictable results, especially when covering existing color.
Furthermore, box dyes often contain metallic salts. These ingredients, although not always present, can react unpredictably with professional color, potentially leading to damage, breakage, or even unwanted color results.
The Nuances of Professional Hair Color
Professional hair color, on the other hand, is highly customizable. A trained stylist assesses your hair type, condition, existing color, and desired outcome before mixing a personalized formula. This allows for precise control over the lifting process and color deposit, minimizing damage and maximizing the chance of achieving your desired shade.
Stylists use a variety of developers with different strengths, carefully chosen to lift the hair just enough to deposit the new color. They also have access to a wider range of color pigments, allowing them to create custom shades and address specific color concerns, such as brassiness or uneven tones.
Professional hair color also typically contains ingredients that protect and condition the hair during the coloring process. These additives help to minimize damage and maintain the hair’s health and integrity. This focus on individual hair needs makes professional color a gentler and more predictable option.
The Challenges of Coloring Over Box Dye
While technically possible, coloring over box dye presents several challenges. These challenges stem from the unpredictable nature of box dye and its potential impact on the hair’s structure.
Uneven Color Absorption
One of the biggest issues is uneven color absorption. Box dye can create a barrier on the hair shaft, preventing the professional color from penetrating evenly. This can lead to patchy or inconsistent color results, with some areas grabbing the color more intensely than others.
This is particularly common when dealing with previously dyed hair, as the ends tend to be more porous and absorb color more readily than the roots. The result can be “hot roots” (roots that are significantly brighter than the rest of the hair) or an overall uneven color distribution.
Unexpected Color Results
Box dye can also leave underlying tones in the hair that are difficult to neutralize. These underlying tones can interact with the professional color, leading to unexpected and unwanted results. For example, if a box dye has deposited a lot of red pigment in the hair, applying a cool-toned professional color might result in a muddy or brown shade instead of the desired cool tone.
The presence of metallic salts, even if not explicitly listed on the box dye packaging, can further complicate matters. These salts can react with the chemicals in professional color, leading to discoloration, breakage, or even a chemical reaction that damages the hair.
Potential for Damage
As mentioned earlier, box dyes often contain higher concentrations of ammonia and peroxide than professional color. This can lead to significant damage, particularly with repeated use. Applying professional color over already damaged hair can exacerbate the problem, resulting in dryness, brittleness, breakage, and split ends.
The lifting process, which is often necessary to lighten the hair before applying a new color, can further weaken the hair structure. This is especially true if the hair has already been subjected to multiple rounds of box dye. The combination of previous damage and additional lifting can lead to severe hair damage that is difficult to repair.
Steps to Take Before Coloring Over Box Dye
If you’re determined to switch from box dye to professional color, there are several steps you can take to minimize the risks and increase the chances of a successful outcome. Consulting with a professional stylist is always the best first step, but here are some preparatory actions:
Consultation with a Professional Stylist
The most important step is to schedule a consultation with a professional stylist. During the consultation, the stylist will assess your hair’s condition, history of box dye use, and desired color result. They will also perform a strand test to determine how your hair will react to the professional color.
The stylist can then develop a customized plan to achieve your desired color while minimizing damage. This plan may involve color correction, gentle lightening techniques, and conditioning treatments to restore the hair’s health and integrity.
Strand Test is Crucial
A strand test is essential for predicting how your hair will react to the professional color. The stylist will apply a small amount of the color to a hidden strand of hair and observe the results. This allows them to assess the color absorption, identify any potential reactions, and adjust the formula accordingly.
The strand test can also reveal the presence of metallic salts in the hair, which would necessitate a different approach to coloring. This test helps prevent unexpected color results and minimize the risk of damage.
Communicate Honestly With Your Stylist
Honesty is key when discussing your hair history with your stylist. Be upfront about the types of box dyes you’ve used, how frequently you’ve colored your hair, and any other chemical treatments you’ve undergone, such as perms or relaxers.
This information will help the stylist assess the overall health of your hair and develop a safe and effective coloring strategy. Hiding information about your hair history can lead to inaccurate assessments and increase the risk of unexpected results or damage.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Before coloring your hair, start using deep conditioning treatments regularly to improve its overall health and hydration. This will help to strengthen the hair shaft and make it more resilient to the coloring process.
Look for deep conditioners that contain moisturizing ingredients such as shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil. Apply the deep conditioner once or twice a week, leaving it on for at least 20 minutes before rinsing thoroughly.
Color Correction Strategies
If your hair has already been damaged by box dye or if you’re experiencing uneven color results, color correction may be necessary. This is a complex process that requires specialized knowledge and skills.
Understanding Color Theory
Color correction relies on a thorough understanding of color theory. This involves knowing how different colors interact with each other and how to neutralize unwanted tones. For example, green neutralizes red, and blue neutralizes orange.
Stylists use color theory to formulate color correction products that will effectively counteract the underlying tones in the hair and create a more even and balanced base for the desired color.
Gentle Lightening Techniques
If lightening is necessary to achieve the desired color, stylists will use gentle lightening techniques to minimize damage. This may involve using lower-volume developers, applying the lightener gradually, and incorporating bond-building treatments to protect the hair structure.
Bond-building treatments help to repair and strengthen the bonds within the hair shaft, reducing breakage and improving overall hair health. These treatments are often used in conjunction with lightening services to minimize damage.
Toning and Glazing
Toning and glazing are used to refine the color and add shine. Toners are semi-permanent colors that neutralize unwanted tones, such as brassiness or yellowness. Glazes are similar to toners but contain conditioning agents that add moisture and shine to the hair.
These techniques can be used to create a more vibrant and dimensional color, while also improving the overall health and appearance of the hair.
Maintaining Your Color After Switching
Once you’ve successfully switched to professional color, it’s important to maintain your hair’s health and vibrancy with proper care.
Use Color-Safe Products
Use shampoos, conditioners, and styling products that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle on the hair and prevent the color from fading or stripping.
Avoid products that contain sulfates, as these can be harsh on the hair and cause the color to fade quickly. Look for products that contain moisturizing ingredients and UV protection to protect the hair from damage.
Regular Deep Conditioning
Continue using deep conditioning treatments regularly to keep your hair hydrated and healthy. This will help to prevent dryness, breakage, and split ends, and keep your color looking vibrant.
Consider using leave-in conditioners or hair oils to add extra moisture and protection to your hair. These products can help to seal the hair shaft and prevent moisture loss.
Minimize Heat Styling
Excessive heat styling can damage the hair and cause the color to fade. Minimize your use of heat styling tools such as hair dryers, curling irons, and straightening irons.
When you do use heat styling tools, use a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage. Also, use the lowest heat setting possible to achieve your desired style.
Regular Trims
Regular trims are essential for maintaining healthy hair and preventing split ends. Split ends can travel up the hair shaft and cause further damage, so it’s important to trim them off regularly.
Aim to get a trim every 6-8 weeks to keep your hair looking its best.
Ultimately, while it is possible to put professional color over box color, it’s a process that requires careful consideration and expertise. Consulting with a professional stylist is crucial for assessing your hair’s condition, developing a customized plan, and achieving your desired color result safely and effectively. By following these guidelines, you can minimize the risks, protect your hair’s health, and enjoy the benefits of beautiful, professionally colored hair.
What are the biggest risks of applying professional color over box dye?
Applying professional hair color over box dye carries several significant risks. Box dye often contains metallic salts and higher peroxide levels than professional products. When these react with the chemicals in professional color, it can lead to unpredictable and potentially damaging results, such as uneven color absorption, unexpected color shades (like green or muddy tones), and increased hair dryness and breakage.
Furthermore, the chemicals in box dye can create a barrier that prevents professional color from properly penetrating the hair shaft. This can result in a patchy or inconsistent color application, making it difficult to achieve the desired result. Corrective color services, which are more costly and time-consuming, might be required to rectify the situation, potentially further damaging the hair.
How can I tell if I have box dye in my hair before seeing a professional colorist?
One of the telltale signs is a solid, uniform color from root to tip, lacking the natural variation and dimension you’d expect from professional color. Examine your hair in bright, natural light. Look for a flat, opaque color, especially at the roots, which is a strong indicator of box dye use, as professionally applied color typically blends seamlessly at the roots.
Another indicator is the history of your hair coloring. If you’ve recently or frequently used box dye, especially darker shades or colors containing red tones, it’s safe to assume residue is still present. Even if you used box dye months ago, the chemicals can linger in the hair shaft, affecting how professional color will take. Communicate your complete hair coloring history honestly with your stylist.
What should I tell my stylist if I have used box dye in the past?
Honesty is key when discussing your hair coloring history with your stylist. Be upfront about the specific box dye brands, shades, and dates you used them, even if it was months or years ago. The more information you provide, the better equipped your stylist will be to assess your hair’s condition and predict how it will react to professional color.
Mention any at-home treatments you’ve used, such as relaxers, perms, or glosses, as these can also affect the outcome of professional coloring. Transparency will enable your stylist to choose the appropriate color formulas, adjust processing times, and perform strand tests to minimize the risk of damage and achieve the best possible results.
What is a strand test, and why is it important before coloring over box dye?
A strand test involves applying the intended professional color formula to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to assess how it will react. This crucial step helps determine if the color will take properly, whether there will be any unexpected reactions, and how long the color needs to process to achieve the desired shade.
Performing a strand test before applying color to your entire head is especially important when you have a history of using box dye. It allows your stylist to see firsthand how the previous box dye chemicals are interacting with the professional color, preventing potentially disastrous and costly mistakes. It also gives you a preview of the final color and allows for adjustments if needed.
Can a clarifying shampoo remove box dye before professional coloring?
Clarifying shampoos can help remove some build-up and surface residue from your hair, including some of the pigments from box dye. These shampoos are designed to deeply cleanse the hair shaft, removing impurities and products that can interfere with the penetration of professional color.
However, clarifying shampoo cannot completely remove box dye, especially darker shades or permanent formulations. Box dye molecules penetrate deep into the hair cortex, making them difficult to extract with a simple shampoo. While clarifying shampoo can improve the overall condition of your hair and help professional color adhere better, it’s not a substitute for professional advice and treatment.
What corrective measures might a stylist take before applying professional color over box dye?
A stylist might employ several corrective measures to prepare your hair for professional color after box dye use. These could include a color remover to gently lift some of the artificial pigment without excessive damage. Alternatively, a deep conditioning treatment might be used to improve the hair’s porosity and health before any coloring process.
Depending on the hair’s condition, a stylist might also opt for a filler. Fillers help replace missing pigments in the hair shaft, particularly if the box dye has significantly altered the natural color or caused uneven porosity. This ensures that the professional color adheres evenly and provides a more predictable and vibrant result, improving the overall integrity of the hair.
What types of professional color are less risky to use over box dye?
Semi-permanent or demi-permanent colors are generally considered less risky than permanent colors when applied over box dye. These colors deposit pigment on the surface of the hair shaft rather than penetrating deeply, reducing the potential for unpredictable chemical reactions and damage. They are also less likely to lift or alter the existing box dye color significantly.
However, even with semi- or demi-permanent colors, a strand test is still crucial. While the risk of damage is lower, unexpected color results can still occur depending on the type of box dye previously used and the condition of the hair. These types of color are best for subtle changes and blending or toning existing color, rather than drastic transformations.