Choosing the right developer for your hair coloring project can be a daunting task. The numbers – 10, 20, 30, 40 – can feel like a secret code only understood by seasoned hair professionals. However, understanding the differences between these developers, particularly 20 and 30 volume, is crucial for achieving your desired color outcome while maintaining the health of your hair. This comprehensive guide will delve into the intricacies of 20 and 30 volume developers, exploring their strengths, weaknesses, and ideal applications.
Understanding Hair Developer: The Key to Color Transformation
Hair developer, also known as peroxide, is a crucial component in the hair coloring process. It’s the oxidizing agent that allows the hair dye molecules to penetrate the hair shaft and deposit color. Without developer, hair dye would simply sit on the surface of the hair, resulting in minimal color change and poor longevity.
Developer works by opening the hair cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft. This allows the dye molecules to enter the cortex, the inner layer where the color is deposited. The higher the volume of the developer, the more the cuticle is opened, leading to greater color lift and faster processing times.
The volume of developer refers to the percentage of hydrogen peroxide it contains. For example, a 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide, while a 30 volume developer contains 9%. This seemingly small difference in percentage translates into a significant difference in the developer’s lifting power and potential damage to the hair.
20 Volume Developer: Gentle Lift and Color Deposit
20 volume developer is often considered the workhorse of hair coloring. It provides a gentle lift, typically lifting the hair one to two levels, and is ideal for depositing color, covering grays, and achieving subtle changes.
Ideal Uses for 20 Volume Developer
20 volume developer is a versatile choice for a variety of hair coloring applications.
- Gray Coverage: Its gentle lift and strong color deposit make it excellent for covering stubborn grays. It ensures that the dye penetrates the resistant gray hairs, providing even and long-lasting coverage.
- Deposit Only Color: If you’re aiming to deepen your existing hair color or add a tone without significantly lightening it, 20 volume developer is the perfect choice.
- Toning: For toning bleached hair, 20 volume developer is generally preferred as it provides sufficient processing without over-processing and causing damage.
- Root Touch-Ups: When touching up roots that are only slightly lighter than the rest of your hair, 20 volume developer can provide seamless blending.
- Delicate or Damaged Hair: If your hair is already damaged, fragile, or highly porous, 20 volume developer is the gentler option, minimizing further damage.
Pros and Cons of 20 Volume Developer
Understanding the advantages and disadvantages of 20 volume developer will help you determine if it’s the right choice for your specific needs.
Pros:
- Less Damaging: The lower concentration of hydrogen peroxide makes it gentler on the hair, reducing the risk of damage, breakage, and dryness.
- Gradual Color Change: Provides a more controlled and predictable color change, minimizing the risk of unexpected or unwanted results.
- Enhanced Shine: Its ability to deposit color effectively can enhance the overall shine and vibrancy of the hair.
- Ideal for Sensitive Scalps: Less likely to cause irritation or sensitivity on the scalp compared to higher volume developers.
Cons:
- Limited Lifting Power: Not suitable for significant color changes or lifting several levels.
- May Not Fully Cover Resistant Gray: In some cases, it might not be strong enough to completely cover extremely resistant gray hairs.
- Slower Processing Time: May require a longer processing time compared to 30 volume developer to achieve the desired results.
30 Volume Developer: Powerful Lift for Brighter Color
30 volume developer is a stronger option that provides a more significant lift, typically lifting the hair two to three levels. It’s ideal for achieving brighter, lighter shades, and for lifting through multiple layers of previously colored hair.
Ideal Uses for 30 Volume Developer
30 volume developer is best suited for situations where a greater degree of lightening is desired.
- Significant Color Change: If you’re aiming for a dramatic color change, such as going from dark brown to light blonde, 30 volume developer is necessary to lift the hair to the desired level.
- Lifting Multiple Levels: For lifting hair several shades lighter, 30 volume developer offers the necessary power.
- Lifting Through Previous Color: If you have previously colored hair and want to lighten it, 30 volume developer can help break through the existing color and lift the hair to the desired level. However, caution is advised as it can cause damage.
- Stubborn Gray Hair: For very resistant gray hair, 30 volume developer may be required to achieve full and even coverage.
- Balayage and Highlights: Used to create noticeable highlights and balayage effects, providing contrast and dimension to the hair.
Pros and Cons of 30 Volume Developer
Weighing the advantages and disadvantages of 30 volume developer is critical before deciding to use it.
Pros:
- Stronger Lifting Power: Lifts the hair more effectively, allowing for more dramatic color changes.
- Faster Processing Time: Processes color faster than 20 volume developer, reducing the overall processing time.
- Effective for Lightening Dark Hair: Can lift dark hair to lighter shades more effectively.
Cons:
- More Damaging: The higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide can cause more damage to the hair, leading to dryness, breakage, and split ends.
- Higher Risk of Over-Processing: Can easily over-process the hair, resulting in uneven color or damage.
- More Irritating to Scalp: More likely to cause irritation or sensitivity on the scalp.
- Less Predictable Results: The stronger lifting power can sometimes lead to unpredictable color results, especially on previously colored hair.
20 vs 30: Key Differences Summarized
The most significant difference lies in their lifting power and potential for damage. 20 volume is gentler and better suited for subtle changes and gray coverage, while 30 volume provides a more significant lift for brighter colors and dramatic transformations.
A Comparative Look
To better understand the distinctions, consider this overview:
- Lifting Power: 30 volume developer lifts more levels (2-3) than 20 volume developer (1-2).
- Damage Potential: 30 volume developer is more damaging to the hair than 20 volume developer.
- Processing Time: 30 volume developer processes color faster than 20 volume developer.
- Color Deposit: 20 volume developer is better for depositing color and enhancing shine.
- Gray Coverage: Both can cover gray, but 30 volume may be needed for very resistant gray.
Choosing the Right Developer: Key Considerations
Selecting the appropriate developer involves considering several factors, including your hair type, condition, desired color result, and hair history.
Assessing Your Hair Type and Condition
- Fine or Damaged Hair: Opt for 20 volume developer to minimize damage.
- Thick or Coarse Hair: 30 volume developer may be necessary to achieve the desired lift.
- Healthy Hair: Can generally tolerate 30 volume developer, but monitor closely.
- Previously Colored Hair: Be cautious with 30 volume developer, as it can react unpredictably.
Desired Color Result
- Subtle Change: 20 volume developer is ideal for depositing color or slightly darkening the hair.
- Significant Lightening: 30 volume developer is necessary for achieving a brighter, lighter shade.
- Gray Coverage: Start with 20 volume developer, but use 30 volume if necessary.
Hair History
- Virgin Hair: Virgin hair (hair that has never been chemically treated) is generally more resilient and can tolerate 30 volume developer better than previously colored hair.
- Previously Bleached or Permed Hair: Avoid using 30 volume developer on hair that has been previously bleached or permed, as it is already weakened and prone to damage.
- Color Build-Up: Hair with significant color build-up may require a color remover before using 30 volume developer.
Tips for Safe and Effective Hair Coloring
Regardless of which developer you choose, following these tips can help you achieve optimal results while minimizing damage.
- Perform a Strand Test: Always perform a strand test before applying the developer and dye to your entire head. This will help you assess how your hair reacts to the mixture and determine the appropriate processing time.
- Follow Manufacturer’s Instructions: Carefully read and follow the instructions provided by the hair dye and developer manufacturers.
- Use Gloves: Always wear gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals.
- Protect Your Clothing and Surroundings: Wear an old t-shirt and protect your work surface with a towel or plastic sheet.
- Apply Evenly: Apply the dye and developer mixture evenly to ensure consistent color results.
- Monitor Processing Time: Carefully monitor the processing time and rinse the hair thoroughly as soon as the desired color is achieved.
- Use a Deep Conditioner: After coloring, use a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s health.
- Wait Between Colorings: Avoid coloring your hair too frequently. Allow your hair time to recover between colorings.
When to Consult a Professional Hair Colorist
While DIY hair coloring can be convenient and cost-effective, there are certain situations where it’s best to consult a professional hair colorist.
- Dramatic Color Changes: If you’re attempting a drastic color change, such as going from dark brown to blonde, it’s best to leave it to the professionals.
- Color Correction: If you’ve had a previous hair coloring disaster, a professional colorist can help you correct the color and restore your hair’s health.
- Damaged Hair: If your hair is severely damaged, a professional can assess its condition and recommend the best course of action.
- Unsure About the Process: If you’re unsure about any aspect of the hair coloring process, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and consult a professional.
- Underlying Medical Conditions: If you have sensitive skin, allergies, or any underlying medical conditions, consult with a doctor before coloring your hair.
Ultimately, the choice between 20 and 30 volume developer depends on your individual hair type, condition, and desired color result. By carefully considering these factors and following the tips outlined in this guide, you can achieve beautiful, healthy-looking hair color at home. When in doubt, consulting a professional hair colorist is always the safest and most reliable option.
What is the primary difference between 20 and 30 volume developers?
The primary difference between 20 and 30 volume developers lies in their hydrogen peroxide concentration. 20 volume developer contains approximately 6% hydrogen peroxide, while 30 volume developer contains approximately 9% hydrogen peroxide. This seemingly small difference significantly impacts the lifting power of the developer and, consequently, the final hair color result.
The higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide in 30 volume developer allows it to lift more levels of color from the hair than 20 volume developer. This means it can lighten the natural hair pigment to a greater extent, making it suitable for achieving lighter shades or covering resistant gray hairs. However, this increased lifting power also comes with a greater risk of damage and over-processing if not used correctly.
When should I use a 20 volume developer?
20 volume developer is generally the safest and most versatile option for subtle color changes and depositing color. It’s ideal for achieving one to two levels of lift, darkening hair color, covering gray hairs effectively when used with the appropriate color formula, and refreshing existing color without significant lightening. It minimizes the risk of damage, making it a good choice for those with fragile or previously processed hair.
This developer is also excellent for tone-on-tone color application, where the goal is not to significantly lighten the natural hair color. It’s suitable for adding richness and depth to existing shades or for depositing fashion colors. Remember that 20 volume is usually the recommended choice for demi-permanent hair color formulations.
When is a 30 volume developer the right choice?
30 volume developer is appropriate when you need to achieve a more significant lift, typically two to three levels, or when dealing with resistant gray hair that requires a stronger oxidizing agent to penetrate the cuticle effectively. It is also used for high-lift blonding techniques, although a higher volume developer might sometimes be preferred depending on the desired outcome.
However, it’s crucial to proceed with caution when using 30 volume developer. Due to its higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide, it can cause more damage to the hair if not handled properly. It is not recommended for damaged or very fine hair and requires careful monitoring during the development process to prevent over-processing.
Can I use 30 volume developer if I want to cover gray hair?
While 30 volume developer can be effective for covering resistant gray hair, it’s not always the best or only solution. Its higher oxidizing power can help to open the hair cuticle more effectively, allowing the color to penetrate and adhere to the gray strands. However, it’s important to consider the overall health and condition of your hair.
Alternatively, a 20 volume developer might be sufficient, especially when paired with a color formulation specifically designed for gray coverage and formulated to fully saturate the hair. In these instances, proper application technique and processing time are key to successful gray coverage without the added risk of damage associated with 30 volume. Consulting with a professional colorist is recommended to determine the best approach for your specific hair type and needs.
What are the potential risks of using too high a volume developer?
Using a volume developer that is too strong for your hair type or the desired result can lead to several undesirable consequences. The most significant risk is hair damage, including dryness, breakage, and increased porosity. The higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide can weaken the hair’s protein structure, making it more susceptible to damage from heat styling and environmental factors.
Additionally, using too high a volume developer can result in uneven color development and unpredictable results. It can cause banding, where different sections of the hair lift to different levels, leading to an inconsistent and patchy color. Over-processing can also affect the hair’s ability to hold color, causing it to fade quickly and appear dull.
How do I choose the right developer volume for my hair?
Choosing the right developer volume involves considering your natural hair color, the desired color result, your hair’s health, and any previous chemical treatments. If you’re aiming for a subtle color change, such as darkening your hair or covering a few grays, a 20 volume developer is typically sufficient. If you need to lift your hair several levels or are dealing with resistant gray hair, a 30 volume developer may be necessary.
However, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and start with a lower volume developer, especially if your hair is damaged or fine. Performing a strand test before applying the color to your entire head is highly recommended. If you are unsure, consulting with a professional colorist is the best way to ensure you choose the appropriate developer and achieve your desired results without damaging your hair.
Can I mix 20 and 30 volume developers together?
While theoretically possible to mix 20 and 30 volume developers to create a solution with a hydrogen peroxide concentration somewhere in between, it’s generally not recommended unless you have a thorough understanding of hair color chemistry and are able to precisely calculate the resulting volume. The resulting solution may still not behave exactly as anticipated.
The consistency and overall chemical balance of the resulting mixture can be unpredictable. This can lead to uneven color development, inconsistent lifting, and potentially compromise the integrity of your hair. It is safer and more reliable to stick to using developers at their intended volumes, ensuring consistent results and minimizing the risk of damage.