So, you’ve dyed your hair, and instead of the glorious color you envisioned, you’re sporting a shade of orange that’s less sunset and more… well, traffic cone. Don’t panic! Orange hair is a common problem, especially when trying to go lighter or when dealing with dark hair. The good news is, there are plenty of solutions to banish that unwanted brassiness and achieve the hair color you desire. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about correcting orange hair, from understanding why it happens to choosing the right products and techniques.
Understanding Why Your Hair Turned Orange
Before diving into solutions, it’s crucial to understand why your hair ended up orange in the first place. This knowledge will help you prevent similar issues in the future.
The Science of Hair Color and Underlying Pigments
Hair color isn’t just about the dye you apply; it’s about the underlying pigments already present in your hair. When you lighten your hair, you’re essentially lifting these pigments. Darker hair contains more red and orange pigments, while lighter hair contains more yellow.
When you try to lift your hair color significantly – for example, going from dark brown to blonde – these warm undertones are often the first to be exposed. If the lightening process isn’t strong enough or long enough, you might end up with a brassy, orange hue. This is especially common with box dyes, which often contain weaker developers that struggle to lift dark hair effectively.
Common Causes of Orange Hair
Several factors can contribute to orange hair, including:
- Insufficient Lightening: Not lifting the hair light enough before applying the desired color.
- Dark Hair Base: Darker hair naturally has more red and orange undertones.
- Poor Quality Dye: Using low-quality or weak box dyes.
- Uneven Application: Applying the dye unevenly, leading to patchy results.
- Hard Water: Minerals in hard water can deposit on the hair, contributing to brassiness.
- Sun Exposure: Prolonged sun exposure can fade hair color and reveal underlying warm tones.
- Medications: Some medications can affect hair color.
- Buildup: Product buildup can interfere with dye absorption.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition
Before you start any color correction process, it’s essential to assess the condition of your hair. Lightening and dyeing can be damaging, so you need to be gentle and avoid further stress.
Evaluating Damage and Porosity
Look for signs of damage, such as split ends, breakage, and dryness. Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb moisture and color. High porosity hair absorbs quickly but also loses moisture and color rapidly. Low porosity hair resists absorption.
To test your hair’s porosity, take a strand of clean, dry hair and drop it into a glass of water.
- If it floats on top, your hair has low porosity.
- If it sinks slowly, your hair has normal porosity.
- If it sinks quickly, your hair has high porosity.
Knowing your hair’s condition and porosity will help you choose the right products and techniques for color correction. Damaged or highly porous hair requires extra care and gentler methods.
Determining Your Desired End Result
What are you hoping to achieve with your hair color? Are you aiming for a cool-toned blonde, a light brown, or a different shade altogether? Having a clear goal in mind will help you choose the right color correction strategy. Consider your skin tone and personal style when making your decision. Gathering inspiration pictures can be incredibly helpful in communicating your desired look to a professional stylist or in guiding your DIY efforts.
Color Correction Options: A Step-by-Step Guide
Now that you understand the cause of your orange hair and have assessed your hair’s condition, let’s explore the various color correction options available.
Toning: A Gentle Solution for Mild Brassiness
Toning is a process that neutralizes unwanted tones in your hair. Toners deposit pigment to counteract brassiness, yellow, or orange hues. They don’t lift the hair color, so they’re best for correcting mild orange tones.
Choosing the Right Toner
For orange hair, you’ll need a toner with blue or blue-violet pigments. These pigments are opposite orange on the color wheel, so they effectively neutralize it. Look for toners specifically labeled for “brass reduction” or “anti-orange.”
Popular toner options include:
- Wella Color Charm T18 (White Lady): A classic toner for achieving a cool blonde, but it may not be strong enough for very orange hair.
- Wella Color Charm T14 (Pale Ash Blonde): Another popular option for cool tones.
- Redken Shades EQ: A demi-permanent gloss that comes in a wide range of tones.
- Purple Shampoo and Conditioner: While not technically toners, these products contain purple pigments that can help neutralize brassiness with regular use.
When choosing a toner, consider your hair’s level. Toners are typically numbered, with lower numbers indicating darker shades. If your hair is very light orange, you can use a lighter toner. If it’s a darker, more intense orange, you may need a stronger toner or a combination of techniques.
Applying Toner Correctly
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when applying toner. Generally, the process involves:
- Mixing the toner with a developer (usually a low-volume developer like 10 or 20 volume).
- Applying the mixture to damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most orange.
- Processing for the recommended time (usually 10-30 minutes).
- Rinsing thoroughly and conditioning.
Be careful not to over-process the toner, as this can result in unwanted blue or purple tones. Check your hair frequently during the processing time.
Coloring Over Orange: When Toning Isn’t Enough
If your hair is very orange or you want to achieve a significantly different color, you may need to dye over the orange tones. This is a more involved process than toning and requires careful consideration.
Choosing the Right Dye Color
The color you choose to dye over orange hair depends on your desired end result. Here are a few options:
- Brown: If you want to go darker, choose a brown shade that is a few levels darker than your current orange color. Look for browns with cool or neutral undertones to avoid adding more warmth.
- Dark Blonde: If you want to stay relatively light, choose a dark blonde shade with ash or beige undertones.
- Red/Copper: Embrace the warmth and go for a red or copper shade. This can be a good option if you like warm tones and don’t want to fight the underlying orange.
- Color Wheel Considerations: Remember the color wheel. To neutralize orange, you need blue. So, when selecting your dye, look for shades with cool, blue-based undertones to counteract the orange.
The Importance of Filling
When dyeing over orange hair, especially if you’re going darker, filling is a crucial step. Filling involves adding back the missing underlying pigments to your hair before applying the final color. This helps to prevent the color from turning muddy or ashy.
To fill orange hair, use a dye that is similar to the underlying orange tone. This will create a more even base for your final color.
The Dyeing Process
- Perform a strand test: Before applying the dye to your entire head, test it on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how the color develops.
- Apply the dye evenly: Use a brush and bowl to apply the dye evenly to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends.
- Process according to the manufacturer’s instructions: Follow the recommended processing time on the dye box.
- Rinse thoroughly and condition: Rinse the dye out of your hair thoroughly and apply a deep conditioner to replenish moisture.
Color Correction Techniques for Severe Orange Hair
Sometimes, toning and dyeing aren’t enough to correct severe orange hair. In these cases, you may need to consider more advanced color correction techniques.
Bleach Bath/Soap Cap
A bleach bath, also known as a soap cap, is a gentler form of lightening that can help to lift the remaining orange tones without causing as much damage as a full bleach application.
A bleach bath involves mixing bleach with shampoo and developer and applying it to damp hair for a short period of time. This helps to lift the color gradually.
- Mix equal parts bleach powder, developer (10 or 20 volume), and shampoo.
- Apply to damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most orange.
- Process for 5-20 minutes, checking frequently.
- Rinse thoroughly and condition.
Use caution when performing a bleach bath, as it can still be damaging to your hair. It’s best to consult with a professional stylist if you’re unsure.
Color Stripping
Color strippers are designed to remove artificial color from the hair. They work by breaking down the dye molecules, making them easier to wash out.
Color strippers can be effective for removing orange tones, but they can also be drying and damaging to the hair. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and use a deep conditioner afterward.
Professional Color Correction
In cases of severe orange hair or if you’re uncomfortable performing color correction yourself, it’s best to seek professional help. A skilled colorist can assess your hair’s condition, determine the underlying cause of the orange tones, and create a customized color correction plan.
Professional color correction may involve a combination of techniques, such as bleaching, toning, filling, and dyeing. While it may be more expensive than DIY methods, it can help you achieve the desired result without causing further damage to your hair.
Maintaining Your Corrected Hair Color
Once you’ve successfully corrected your orange hair, it’s important to take steps to maintain your new color and prevent brassiness from returning.
Using Color-Safe Products
Use shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are gentler and won’t strip your hair of its color.
Avoiding Heat Styling
Heat styling can fade hair color and contribute to damage. Minimize your use of heat styling tools, such as flat irons and curling irons. When you do use heat, always use a heat protectant spray.
Protecting Your Hair from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade hair color and reveal underlying warm tones. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
Regular Toning
Use a purple shampoo or toner regularly to keep brassiness at bay.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Regular deep conditioning treatments will help to keep your hair hydrated and healthy, which is essential for maintaining color.
Avoiding Hard Water
If you have hard water, consider using a shower filter to remove minerals that can contribute to brassiness.
Product Recommendations for Correcting and Maintaining Hair Color
Choosing the right products can significantly impact the success of your color correction and maintenance efforts. Here are some recommended products:
| Product Type | Brand | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Toner | Wella Color Charm | A classic toner for achieving cool blonde tones. |
| Purple Shampoo | Fanola No Yellow Shampoo | A strong purple shampoo for neutralizing brassiness. |
| Color-Safe Shampoo | Redken Color Extend Magnetics Shampoo | Gentle cleanser designed to protect color-treated hair. |
| Deep Conditioner | Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector | A bond-building treatment that helps to repair damaged hair. |
| Heat Protectant | Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection | Protects hair from heat damage while adding shine. |
Correcting orange hair can be a challenging but achievable task. By understanding the underlying causes, assessing your hair’s condition, and choosing the right products and techniques, you can banish brassiness and achieve the hair color of your dreams. Remember to be patient, gentle, and don’t be afraid to seek professional help if needed.
FAQ 1: Why is my dyed hair turning orange?
Orange tones, particularly brassiness, often emerge in dyed hair due to a few key reasons. Firstly, darker hair colors, especially those with red or brown undertones, are difficult to lift to lighter shades without exposing the underlying warmth. When you lighten your hair, the melanin, which is responsible for its natural color, is broken down. However, the red and orange pigments are the most resistant and the last to be removed, leading to that unwanted orange hue. This is further exacerbated if you’re trying to achieve a very light blonde from a naturally dark base.
Secondly, factors like hard water, sun exposure, and using heat styling tools can contribute to color fading and brassiness. Minerals in hard water can deposit on the hair shaft, leading to a build-up that interferes with the hair’s color and promotes orange tones. Similarly, UV rays from the sun can oxidize the hair, causing the dye molecules to break down and reveal the underlying warmth. Heat styling tools can also damage the hair cuticle, making it more porous and prone to color loss, contributing to the appearance of orange.
FAQ 2: What are the immediate steps I should take if my hair turns orange after dyeing?
The first and most crucial step is to assess the severity of the orange tones. If it’s a mild brassiness, you can try a color-correcting shampoo specifically formulated to neutralize orange, like a blue shampoo. These shampoos contain blue pigments that counteract the orange tones on the color wheel, helping to balance and tone down the brassiness. Be sure to follow the product’s instructions carefully, as overusing blue shampoo can lead to a blue or ashy tint in lighter hair.
If the orange is more pronounced or widespread, avoid attempting further lightening processes immediately. This can cause further damage and exacerbate the issue. Instead, consider consulting with a professional colorist who can accurately diagnose the problem and recommend a tailored color correction plan. They may suggest a color glaze or toner to neutralize the orange without further lightening the hair, or, in severe cases, a more complex color correction process.
FAQ 3: How does blue shampoo help with orange tones in hair?
Blue shampoo works based on the principles of color theory. Orange and blue are opposite each other on the color wheel, meaning they neutralize each other. The blue pigments in the shampoo deposit onto the hair shaft, counteracting the orange tones and creating a more balanced and neutral color. This is a relatively gentle way to tone down brassiness without further lightening or processing the hair.
However, it’s important to use blue shampoo correctly to avoid unintended consequences. Follow the product’s instructions carefully, typically leaving it on for a few minutes before rinsing. Overusing blue shampoo, especially on very light or porous hair, can result in a blue or ashy tint. Start with a small amount and gradually increase the usage as needed to achieve the desired tone. Always monitor your hair’s color and adjust the frequency of use accordingly.
FAQ 4: What is a toner and how can it fix orange hair?
A toner is a demi-permanent hair color product designed to neutralize unwanted tones and enhance the overall hair color. It works by depositing pigment onto the hair shaft, rather than lifting or lightening the existing color. Toners are available in various shades, including those specifically formulated to counteract orange, such as ash blonde or violet-based toners. These toners contain pigments that neutralize the orange tones and create a more neutral or cool-toned result.
When using a toner to correct orange hair, it’s crucial to select the correct shade based on the level of orange and the desired outcome. Apply the toner evenly to damp hair, following the product’s instructions carefully. Processing time is critical, as leaving the toner on for too long can result in unwanted tones like gray or purple. Regular toners fade after several washes, so maintaining the color requires periodic reapplication or the use of color-depositing shampoos.
FAQ 5: Can I use a darker hair dye to cover up orange tones?
Yes, using a darker hair dye is a viable option for covering up orange tones, but it requires careful consideration. The key is to choose a color that will effectively neutralize the orange and provide the desired result without creating an unnatural or muddy appearance. Look for shades with cool or ash undertones, such as ash brown or cool dark brown, to counteract the warmth of the orange. Avoid warm-toned browns, reds, or golds, as these will only accentuate the orange.
Before applying a darker dye, consider doing a strand test to ensure the color will achieve the desired outcome. It’s also important to remember that going darker can make it more difficult to lighten your hair in the future. If you’re unsure, consulting with a professional colorist is always recommended, as they can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the most suitable color and application technique.
FAQ 6: What about using a color depositing conditioner or mask?
Color-depositing conditioners and masks are excellent options for subtly toning and maintaining hair color, including addressing minor orange tones. These products contain pigments that deposit color onto the hair shaft with each use, gradually neutralizing unwanted brassiness and enhancing the desired tone. They are generally gentler than toners and semi-permanent dyes, making them a good choice for those seeking a low-commitment color correction method.
When selecting a color-depositing conditioner or mask, look for shades with blue or violet pigments to counteract the orange. Follow the product’s instructions carefully, typically applying it to clean, damp hair and leaving it on for a specified amount of time before rinsing. The frequency of use will depend on the intensity of the orange tones and the desired result. Regular use can help maintain a cool, balanced tone and prevent brassiness from reappearing.
FAQ 7: When should I consult a professional hairstylist for orange hair color correction?
Consulting a professional hairstylist is advisable in several situations when dealing with orange hair. If the orange tones are severe, uneven, or resistant to at-home remedies like blue shampoo or toners, a professional color correction is likely necessary. Trying to fix a complex color issue yourself can potentially lead to further damage and uneven results. A professional colorist has the expertise and experience to accurately diagnose the problem and create a tailored correction plan.
Additionally, if you’re aiming for a significant color change, such as going from orange to a very light blonde, it’s best to seek professional help. Achieving a drastic color transformation requires precise application techniques and a deep understanding of hair chemistry. A professional can safely lighten your hair while minimizing damage and ensuring the desired color result. They can also provide personalized advice on maintaining your hair’s health and color vibrancy.